Evgeny Kuzin, the man behind Sirene By Gaia at J1 Beach, says: 'Dining is an emotion'

It’s a balmy afternoon at Sirene By Gaia at J1 Beach. While some are soaking in the views and grooving to the DJ’s tunes, there are those who have submitted to the food on the table.

Enter Evgeny Kuzin, CEO and founder of Fundamental Hospitality and the man behind the concept that is currently the flavour of the season in the luxury dining scene in Dubai. Evgeny has been a trailblazing figure in the F&B industry in this part of the world. He has not only introduced some of the leading global concepts in luxury dining to the region but, through Gaia — and now Sirene By Gaia — has established an ethos for authentic, homegrown concepts. It’s not just about good food either; Evgeny understands the business of food.

That passion is rooted in his childhood, he says. Born in Novorossisk City in south of Russia, he was deeply inspired as a youngster by his father, who was a bartender. “I thought it was a very cool job,” says Evgeny, who went on to study civil law himself. But when the Soviet Union dissolved, his father found himself a shareholder of the very bar he worked at and started a restaurant. Was Evgeny’s destiny written at this point? Not quite. Like many young Russian men growing up in the 90s, he wanted to script his own story, and that led him to plunging into the real estate business — which brought him to the city of dreams.

We are not just giving people food (you can eat at home as well); we are giving people experiences. And experiences are about emotions, and people do not forget emotions” Dubai calling

Evgeny was all of 21 when he came to Dubai in 2005. “I needed a place that had social currency,” he says. The Dubai he encountered was different from the glitter and glamour we see today. “The city was full of cranes. It was perennially under construction. Hence, I decided to be in the real estate business.”

The property market of 2008, in Evgeny’s own words, was ‘quite intense’. “I had to navigate a fast-moving, competitive market while learning the ins and outs of the industry. It was not easy but it gave me a deep understanding of how Dubai works as a business ecosystem,” he says. Despite the impact of recession, the market here was quick to bounce back. Evgeny, who’d invested in the construction business, took it as a sign to diversify when he found his true calling.

With Dubai poised to become the luxury capital of the Middle East, luxury hospitality, Evgeny realised, would have enormous potential. “There was a gap in true luxury hospitality experiences. I saw an opportunity to introduce something new — world-class nightlife and dining concepts that could compete on a global scale. Buddha Bar and Zuma had been major players back in the day. And a majority of restaurants were operated by hotels. There weren’t many independent operators. The word spread that I was looking for a restaurant space.” That’s when Evgeny discovered an opportunity to open a nightclub at Jumeirah Beach Hotel. The only condition presented to him was that he had to bring in a famous brand.

Never one to dream small, he travelled to London to meet prospective partners and, after nine months of to-and-fro, Movida opened in Radisson Royal Hotel Dubai. Staff was strategically brought in from different parts of the globe to ensure world-class standards were maintained. “Because of those waiters, people would come and even stay at those properties,” he says. A similar process followed for VIP Room, a popular nightclub from Paris. “We thought bringing these brands to Dubai was the right thing to do because at that time, the city was hungry for brands,” says Evgeny. “At that time when you approached prime developers, they would not want you to start a homegrown brand; they wanted to bring popular lifestyle brands from around the world. I began to see myself as someone who could deliver on this.”

It was the beginning of a number of global brands making their way to Dubai’s palate. “2011 was a turning point. International brands like Cipriani and Scalini arrived in Dubai, and the industry began to shift. It was not just about opening venues anymore — it was about creating experiences. The challenge was how to introduce something fresh and exciting while meeting the high expectations of a market used to the best of the best,” he says.

The homegrown factor

Restaurants, says Evgeny, is a passionate business. What has always driven him, “given him the highest level of dopamine”, is to see a room full of people enjoying themselves. “We are not just giving people food (you can eat at home as well); we are giving people experiences. And experiences are about emotions, and people do not forget emotions.”

A part of that emotion is also about creating authentic experiences right here in the UAE that can resonate across the world. Located in DIFC, Evgeny’s homegrown Greek premium dining concept Gaia has travelled all the way to London and is also present in Monaco, Doha and Marbella. And on the horizon is Gaia in Miami and Saint-Tropez. When it opened back in 2023, it created a stir in the local dining scene for its impeccable service and dining experience.

“As a ‘Made in Dubai’ concept, Gaia was not just another restaurant — it was a statement. I wanted to prove that Dubai could create its own world-class hospitality brands, not just import them. The inspiration came from a love of Mediterranean culture, but more importantly, from a desire to build something authentic, elegant and timeless. It wasn’t easy — getting the right mix of design, service and cuisine took time. But once it came to life, it became something bigger than I could have imagined,” says Evgeny.

“For years, Dubai was all about importing luxury brands. I wanted to turn that around — I wanted to create concepts that were so strong they could compete on a global scale. The secret? It’s about more than just a great restaurant — it’s about storytelling, execution and consistency. If you get those right, the world takes notice.”

He also believes it is important to pre-empt change rather than follow it. Sirene By Gaia, for example, responds to the needs of luxury beach clubs in the city. “There are close to 12 beach clubs that opened last December alone. Clearly, it is the new trend. I think the pandemic changed things for nightlife here. Now, people prefer to come and dine at beach clubs because they offer such a relaxed vibe.”

Evgeny adds that there are various reasons why a restaurant does or does not do well. “The thing is I have had my share of failures as well. And while it’s been painful and tough, I have realised a number of factors come together to make a dining experience successful — especially price point and location. The latter is extremely important. You can create a destination, but it is still very dangerous,” he says.

“We always have to be true to our core values — best food, best service, and best experience. It is all about putting these things together. Dubai is a very competitive market and you really need to understand the product and the demographic you are catering to. If you are investing in the right concept, you have nothing to worry about.”

For someone who has set the agenda for premium dining, Evgeny is, unsurprisingly, a foodie. When not launching a new dining concept, he loves to discover new places to eat. “Dining is an emotion, after all!” Agreed.